This tranquil spot near the shore of Islay is Kilnave Chapel, reached by just a short walk through a field but with the ability to trasport you back in time. Unfortunately, that time wasn't quite as peaceful as today and in 1598, Kilnave played a part in the Battle of Traigh Ghruinneart, the last clan conflict on Islay. Lachlan Mor Maclean had sailed from Mull into Loch Gruinart to demand possession of the Rhinns of Islay. Understandably, the MacDonalds who lived there weren't so keen to just ha